A WALK IN THE BUSH

Dqae Qare.

 

Can you say it?

 

After a week working in Gaborone we decided to make the journey to other parts of Botswana, starting with Ghanzi. An 8-hour bus ride from Gaborone to Ghanzi costs just under 130 Pula (USD20), the earliest bus leaves at 6.00 a.m. There were so many donkeys along the bus route, it’s donkey heaven. We didn’t manage to get contacts for Ghanzi so we spent the first night at the Kalahari Arms Hotel, just a 5-minute walk from the bus station. It’s the oldest hotel in Ghanzi but it’s been maintained very well. We finally had the chance to open a bottle of wine for a belated birthday celebration for Rizwan.

 

The next morning, we were picked up by Komstsa from Dqae Qare, the San (Bushmen) community lodge, 20 km out of Ghanzi, where we decided to stay for a couple of days, hopefully to learn about the San community. Dqae Qare is owned by and taken care by the San community. Over the years, the San community has been forcedly displaced from their lands and relocated into different grouped settlements when their lands were taken over by the Bantu people and the whites. With it they were forced to change their way of life. Originally hunter gatherers, they had to adapt to unfamiliar systems like money. They were given cattle as compensation but not the skills or knowledge in managing cattle. The cattle then either escape into the wild or get eaten by lions. Since then so many of their original skills are lost too because nobody practise them anymore and they’re not handed down to the next generation. Their culture is dying slowly. Sadly, the younger generation are also ashamed of their roots and choose life in bigger towns and cities. The last San village was removed by the government from the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR).

 

Komstsa is from the Dcui tribe and speaks Naro. I had so much difficulty pronouncing the combination of consonants and clicks AND vowels. The tribes come from different locations and speak different languages. What I noticed about the San, or at least the ones I met, is that they have softer face features, their skin a gentle chocolate brown instead of coffee black.

 

Wildebeests, kudus and ostriches roam your front porch freely here. The water is slightly salty but drinkable. Similar to South Africa, you can drink the water straight from the tap in Botswana. The sand has a reddish tinge instead of the normal light brown. It was another win, we were the only ones there, in the bush.

 

Komstsa (right) accompanied here by Shadreck driving us to Dqae Qare.

 

The establishment is not big but consists of one main accommodation block, a few ‘traditional’ San huts, a camping ground, a kitchen and a rest area where food is normally served. There is also a dance arena and lookout tower. Breakfast and dinner are included in the rates, so it’s a good idea to bring your own supply for lunch.

 

There are comfortable beds inside the San huts at the lodge, it is merely an experience but not as real. On the left is the ablution block.

 

     

San art and the full moon at night.

 

We went on a bush walk the morning after. We learned a bit about the plants used by the San to be consumed or to be used to heal ailments. Nowadays, the San still gather nuts and berries, their favourite is the brandybush berries, naturally sweet and used to make traditional alcohol (hence the name). Komstsa also showed us animal tracks on the way to the Tatase pan, where we sat observantly, waiting for the animals to come for a drink.

 

Komstsa explaining about one of the plants during our bush walk.

  

   

A San child.

 

 

The kind ladies at the lodge.

 

Spending time with them has brought greater understanding of their life, history and ongoing struggles. A few times while listening to Komstsa, I thought to myself, “All of this sound familiar. It’s just like home.”: - How lands are taken and destroyed in the name of development, communities uprooted as a result.

The greatest challenge is how to make sure that all is not lost – the culture, the tradition, the history, the language, the skills…., most of all, the pride and dignity of the people of the land – before it’s too late.

 

This is a present day hut actually occupied by a San family in Dkar, not far from Dqae Qare.

 

Mission: Read – Tears For My Land by Kuela Kiema

SOUTH AFRICA THROUGH MY EYES

To be honest I don’t know what I think about South Africa. Even after 2 weeks.

I'm going to have to start with the things I see.

South Africa is about soaring mountains and crystal clear oceans. Vineyards and farmlands and mines stretch as far as the horizon. Driving around the countryside takes your breath away - you are in awe of the constant change of view around you. Game reserves are aplenty, you'll be given the rare opportunity to be in the company of elephants, rhinos, giraffes, zebras, hippos, kudus, elands, wildebeests and warthogs in the wild. In the cities, the roads are pristine and estates are just filled with beautiful houses with manicured lawns and you sip your wine out near the swimming pool and stare at the shadow of lavender swaying with the wind. Cashiers never fail to give you a big smile and greet you when you line up for your groceries. Everybody's friendly, everybody's warm.

Everybody seems to be happy. Living the life.

But a lot of times, that life is neatly hidden behind electrical fences, barbed wires and thick metal grills. Drive a bit more and there'll be roads heavily potholed with signs that say 'Hijacking Hotspots - for the next 6 km’, nothing more so you just have to take your chances. Very cautiously, you continue driving and shanty towns slowly appear. You lock your doors because it's bloody dangerous. Hide everything. Never wind down the windows when you reach junctions - people come to try sell you trinkets, newspapers; others ask for food, money, or garbage. Never look people in the eyes. Never do anything. Sit put until the light goes green. Because that's what you're told to do.

There's just so much disparity around, so obvious that it's shameful to see. Poverty is prevalent within the black community. This amidst the vast richness of everything else. You will observe the many that are forced to walk for miles and miles to get anywhere because cheap public transport is scarce when 9 out of 10 private cars are only driven by the 10% population of whites - I counted. Whatever image the country's portrayed for, although still holds true to an extent, has deeply hurt it's own reputation and will continue so until things really change. Crime is real, but so is fear mongering – sadly, even among locals. Time will heal, time is needed to put South Africa's sad history behind her but from it too, to welcome and embrace her full potential, slowly, but surely emerging. Many are trying to make a difference for the better and that says a lot about the desire of her people.

All in all, I love the marvellous time I have in South Africa; the scenic tour around Cape Town, the quiet stay in the wine district of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, the lovely wedding in the little place called The Moon and Sixpence, the exciting game drives in Thulani and Pilanesburg, the busy weeks in Johannesburg, most of all, the great people I meet.

But at times, my heart sinks.
 

Security is big business in the cities.

 

Kids coming home from school at the Malay Quarter in Cape Town.

 

A view of Cape Town from Table Mountain.

 

At a vineyard Stellenbosch.

 

Cape Agulhas, the southernmost tip of South Africa. The moment we first saw the ocean, Rizwan and I just stopped by the side of the road and sat there in silence. It was one of the most beautiful experiences.

 

Wildebeests in Pilanesburg Game Reserve

Before signing off, here's a big HAPPY BIRTHDAY to Little Jen back in Miri. Best wishes and good luck for the exam!

I HATE TO WAKE YOU UP

All my bags are packed

I'm ready to go

I'm standing here

outside your door

I hate to wake you up

to say goodbye

Driving up to the Sg Buloh R&R for sate I'll still sing the song.

I'm all set! Passport....check! Ticket....check! Just about what I need!

I'm just hanging around at home with the family today. My final hours in Kuala Lumpur.

- image from www.bbc.co.uk

But just as I was having everything ready, there in the news, another earthquake struck, this time north-east Japan at 2.46 p.m., an 8.9 on the Richter scale. I watched in horror at the bird's eye video of a tsunami sweeping inland, the Sendai airport, farmlands, homes, just the sheer force and magnitude unstoppable. I was immediately taken back to the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami on Boxing Day killing hundreds of thousands, the worst in the last century. 

I got in contact with Wade immediately and I was relieved as he assured me that he's fine; that he's nowhere near the epicentre nor the coast but "the ground is still shaking - I feel hungover!"....More good news; Sebastien too, informed us that he's alright.

I'm excited of leaving but as a tsunami warning is issued for the entire Pacific Coast including Philippines, Russia, Hawaii in my mind I keep thinking....Please, please, please, say that you're OK....

KARAOKE TO THE LIBRARY

Sunday's almost over. It feels like only yesterday I met up with Jaja and Gary for drinks. It was quite a crowd at The Library, Jaja and I stayed until 2 a.m. listening to the live band reminiscing the 90s. I have only 5 days left at work and I think I'm all set to go. Riz is flying out of the UK on Wednesday, he'll be spending the first couple of weeks with projects in Cape Town before I arrive. 

I'm looking forward to meeting a few more friends before I leave. I'm hoping the weather's on our side the next time around. 

MY ARM IS STILL ASLEEP

The defiant Col. Gadaffi tries to dismiss rumours that he fled Tripoli. Holding a cream-coloured umbrella perched on the back seat of a car, a shoddy looking building as the backdrop doesn't really help if you ask me. Political unrest is sweeping through the land now, with more violence reported in other countries. With great power comes great responsibility. People tend to forget the latter.

A completely different scene is unfolding on the other side of the world. A devastating earthquake has hit Christchurch, a state of emergency is declared. Volunteers, local authorities and people from all walks of life are frantically trying to search for survivors, or saving friends and colleagues - working way through the night. Mom called a family friend last night, thankfully everybody's alright.

Unfortunately for these two, their mother may not have survived the disaster (photo taken from http://www.news.com.au/).

Whether in the Middle East or New Zealand, here's to the men and women who put their differences aside, fought earnestly, strived persistently. 

On a much lighter note, I went to get my vaccinations done yesterday for yellow fever (mandatory for entry to a number of African countries) and Vivaxim (Hep A + Typhoid). And so, I finally got my yellow card, which resulted in a very numb dead left arm. My travel insurance finally sorted and Astro account cancelled. One useless piece of info - you are allowed to cancel the Astro account you have even if it's registered under a different name. You just have to give one month notice for cancellation of which you have to return the smart card within 3 months. Another option is to freeze the account but only for a limited time (also 3 months). That or I was in my best behaviour lucky to get to deal with a very helpful Customer Service officer, a very different experience to when AIr Asia cancelled my flight.  

IT'S CHRISTMAS

The research may take a back seat for the time being.

Merry Christmas everyone. Happy new year 2011.

FOOTPRINTS

When I was 4 years old I started reading the encyclopedia. The first set of books that I indulge in day in day out. Everything I read intrigued me. Everything fascinated me. The smallest of creatures to the tallest of mountains. The people I never meet and the unfamiliar languages they speak. What tornados are like and how snow feels on my face. Discovering the world became a dream.

I've never travelled beyond South East Asia. 

So this year I started devicing my grand master plan to travel around the world and experience every page of the encyclopedia. As of last June, my itinerary include Taiwan, US and Eastern Europe.

One day, Riz appeared at my door and I found myself a travel buddy, a confidant and more importantly, I finally found a companion for the one destination that has been very low in my list. Africa. I never want to travel alone in Africa so I knew I couldn't let this opportunity slip away. In March 2011, South Africa is where I start, moving my way north until I embark on a solo journey throughout Eastern Europe. 

Riz said that the odds are that I may be the only Dayak girl making my way up Africa to Eastern Europe, but I guess we'll have to find out. All I know is that it's going to be a hell of an awesome  journey.

For the most part, Sticky In Africa is where I'll document my travel. It'll be my source of information and where I pen my thoughts along the way. Sticky In Africa will continuously evolved as I go along, eventually picking up photos of my own and real experiences.

I don't know what to expect by the end of all this. Turn this into a book? An independent documentary? Put everything away in a box and fall back to (gasp) routine? For now, I'm taking it one day at a time, just soaking it in.

So this is my journey.

Wish me luck.